We had a 1200 km drive to the border waiting for us. We decided the best way to start off was with a chicken meal, and then we headed straight south, or so we thought. There were no road signs and the road was more narrow and less trafficked than we expected. We stopped and looked at the starry sky ahead for leads. No north star, but the way Orion pointed indicated we were going – east? We turned and went back to the city and finally found the signs for Tan tan and Laayoune.

By the time we reached Tan tan it was getting close to midnight and time to look for a hotel. We found a good one on Tan tan plage, with even a warm shower – a real luxury in these parts of the world. We showered, drank wine, told stories and went to bed for six hours of sleep.

The next day we drove forever with the desert on our left and the Atlantic on our right. Stopping in Terfaya for diesel, the attendant suggested we check the gearbox for leaks since there was a pool of oil under the car. Terfaya is a port where there is a nice looking ferry taking passengers to Fuerteventura, only four hours away. This would be a good place for Africans trying to make it to European soil to make their escape, but we didn’t see any. Nor did we see any later.